With its white houses dotted along a slope covered in vineyards and olive groves, it is known as the “town that isn’t there”. But Furore is a real open-air museum: with its outdoor murals it is now part of the tourist trail that follows art painted on the outside of houses or on the drywalls of the terraces.
Its name comes from Terra Furoris, an expression borne of the majestic spectacle of the waves crashing against the rocks of the famous fjord at the foot of a valley reached by a long flight of stone steps, or by crossing the SS 163 road. Each year a spectacular diving competition is held here with athletes from all over the world. Furore also produces a very famous wine with DOC status (Controlled Origin Denomination, an Italian quality assurance label for foods and wines).
A magical, enchanted place, where even the pebbles on the seashore are steeped in history and legend, Furore has often been used as a location in many famous films, particularly those of the Italian Neorealist movement, whose most famous exponent was Rossellini. During his romance with Anna Magnani, the great director so fell in love with Furore that he bought two monazeni, typical little houses carved from the tufa, which have now been restored by the town council along with the paper mill and drying house, which have been transformed into an eco museum.
Nature’s marvels are not all that Furore has to offer. In this town of only a few hundred inhabitants, history is carved into the walls of its sacred buildings, such as the church of San Giacomo, San Michele Arcangelo (both visible from the Strada Provinciale – similar to a B road – which leads to Agerola) and Sant’Elia, all of which are worth visiting.
The latter, located in the village of the same name, is extremely ancient and still retains both the interventions carried out in the 15th century and the later Baroque additions. The jewel of the parish is an important 15th-century triptych by Angelo Antonelli da Capua, depicting the Madonna with Child, and Saints Elias and Bartholomew. Despite being tiny (or perhaps for this very reason), the beach at Furore is simply enchanting. A footpath excavated through the rock leads to one of the cult destinations of Amalfi Coast nightlife: L’Africana, the night club which in the 1970s was to the Amalfi Coast what La Capannina was to Versilia.
Images: Michael Paraskevas, MGA73bot2, Fonzy86